Dernière mise à jour le 19 December 2023
Definition: Coming from the word barrel, the word barrel is often used in expressions such as "to call a barrel". The barrel is the holy grail of every experienced surfer. tube and the "vision" that goes with it.
It's the wave tube and the surfer's position inside it, with an ideal exit of course.
These waves are usually formed on Reef break(reefs) and require a high period. Tubes also tend to form with less water on the reef, making waves hollow but also more dangerous.
We have a good example here with Mason Ho chocking a barrel at Padang Padang, a wave where the reef tends to come out of the water....
It is also possible to take barrels on Beach break. The wave will tend to be relatively powerful and fast.
This type of bottom, however, requires less time for tubing and prevents the Closeout(closing wave).
There are also Point break that offer perfect barrels, such as Skeleton Bay in Namibia. The tube runs along the coast, sometimes for miles...
I couldn't tell you about barrels without showing you this beauty below, wrinkled by Koa Smith :
This technique requires you to be in the right place, to have the right speed, whether accelerating or not, and to look at the top of the wave (the lip) to anticipate what the wave will do.
It is possible to catch the board by Pig Dogin position Backside to keep a good trajectory and grip in the barrel.
EN 
FR 
ES 
DE 
PT